Breadboard Suggestions

[brohan]

My son and I were 1st given a DigiSpark from a friend who invested in the Kickstarter, which came with an LED. We enjoyed assembling it, and after just a few days, he was bored. I don't blame him, as we didn't do anything else with it.

I plan on doing better with the more capable Oak, which the same friend gave us, again from the Kickstarter (robot kit). With more pins and capabilities I'm hoping for months+ of bonding and learning.

All that being said, I assume a breadboard would help us get the most out of what we have? If so what do all of you recommend to get along those lines, and why?

Thank you.

[PeterF]

brohan,

There are all different types (just go on to eBay if you haven't already and do a search for breadboard... only some 9,900+ results!), and which one suits you is really dependent on what you want to do with it. If I had to recommend any, I would say something like this one is good as it is a handy size - not too small, and not too big. For a larger one, I would be picking between something like this one and this one. The former is just a longer version of the first one one I suggested, and the latter is an even larger version, with spring terminals on the top for power connections. There are other types with different types of terminals at the top, but the idea is the same... bigger and some sort of power connector.

Regardless of what type you get, make sure you get yourself a load of breadboard wires... you'll need them!

Note that I'm in Australia, so these may not be the best sellers to get these from for you, but should give you ideas on what to look for
Pete

[exeng]

pfeerick, excellent info.

brohan, Another consideration is how you intend to configure the Oak's headers. By default the female headers provided will mean that your Oak will sit off the breadboard (which is fine and perhaps preferred) and not take up breadboard space which would be maximized for prototyping. If you use stackable headers, the Oak can be plugged into the breadboard but this will take up breadboard space (so your size choice should take this into consideration). Also, it only exposes 1 set of breadboard holes on one side of the Oak and 2 on the other side but you will also have access the female header on the oak. If this is an attractive choice (because the Oak is secure in the breadboard), I would go with a larger breadboard. You might say why would I do that? I have one Oak configured this way for prototyping and debug. When the Oak is on the breadboard, I don't have to worry bending the pin portion of the jumper wires as things get moved around with an Oak dangling off the board and it's one less component that have to worry about moving around. Just some ideas for you.

exeng

[brohan]

Thank you pfeerik and exeng.

exeng, would you mind posting a picture of your layout with the Oak on the breadboard please?

[exeng]

Here are a couple of photos of the Oak with stackable headers on the two 9 pin rows only. The 3 pin header for VIN GND VCC does not go through and would prevent insertion into a breadboard. You can see that the Oak sits up just a little. What little does protrude through on the 3 female header bottom forces the board to sit up a little. The photo shows a breadboard similar to what pfreeick  suggested so you can see how much prototype area is left. Also you can see that you have access to the Oak female headers and one or two rows on the breadboard to access the Oak pins depending upon which way you insert the board. You can decide which side of the board gets the most access by placing on the breadboard accordingly. It could be 3 and 0 or 2 and 1 and oriented so one side gets the most holes. It's difficult to see but in the photo the far side of the Oak still allows access to 1 breadboard hole for each header pin.

I have a variety of breadboards to choose from, some smaller (such as the mini) and some larger. I think multiples of the board I'm showing (and I think the one pfeerik suggested) can be snapped together to create a larger prototype area. This may be your best choice. The mini's are not very useful except for the smallest of circuits. Also included a picture of my largest breadboard.

Hope this helps.

exeng

[brohan]

Thank you very much, that's very helpful.  Something like this would be fine then:

http://goo.gl/f4ihfi

I assume you then typically power your board with a USB?

[exeng]

That board looks fine, plus looks like you get a good number of jumper wires. If ever you need more breadboard area, you can always add breadboards to prototype on.

How I power my board depends on what I'm doing. Simple stuff that only needs 3.3v I'll power through USB connector, unless it's put in service. Then, I'm more like to supply via VIN with a 5V wall wart type supply as I may need 5V for other parts of the circuit. For example, you may be trying to drive a 5V relay. In that case the 5V supply would feed VIN and the 5V dependent circuitry.  I also have the Oak level shifter if needed. In which case I will again connect a 5V supply to the level shifter which in turn feeds the Oak VIN.

Happy prototyping and learning with you son.

exeng

[PeterF]

Yes indeed, exeng... a good variety of sizes is always handy... then you have have small neat (or messy) designs, and large messy ones. 

I also like your idea re: stackable headers - allows for dual purpose use... and if you change your mind later... you can always just snip the pins off! You also certainly DO NOT want to extend the three pin header downwards into the breadboard... if you ever managed to insert it into a breadboard... it would let magic smoke out of something for certain!! 

Looks like a good pick to start with brohan - decent size and plenty of jumper wires to get started with. Just note the power rails down the side appear to not be continuous for the full length of the board - so if you want the one voltage all the way down the side of the board, you'll need to connect short jumpers in the middle (where the gap in the red and blue lines is in the middle).

Pete

[brohan]

I got the breadboard today (with wires). 

exeng: what headers (?) did you use to go through the Oak and into the board. The ones I received with the Oak as part of the robot / car kit don't have enough length after going through the Oak board to go into the breadboard. Did you get these somewhere else, of somehow modify the ones from Digistump?

Thank you.

[emardee]

I suspect you are looking for "stackable headers". These have the socket on one side (like you have already), but they have longer pins on the bottom so they can slot into a breadboard below (or another shield). Someone else will know the size you need.

[defragster]

This is awesome overkill 50 each 6 and 8 pin (yeah not 9 pin) but for $17 you can afford to cut them up and abuse them: http://www.amazon.com/100pcs-Geeetech-Stackable-Headers-extend/dp/B00AO0HRCU

The legs are not stout - but that means you can bend them (once) to come out sideways if you want.

[PeterF]

I cheapskated 10x 10 pin stackable header from eBay for US$1.41. So just have to cut one pin off. That was after restocking my 6 & 8 stackable headers for the Arduino boards... US $17.58 for 100 8pin and 100 6 pin... boy are they getting cheap!

[brohan]

Sounds like getting the 10 pins in this case and modifying them is a good way to go. I figured I could modify, but wasn't sure. I'm an Amazon pre-paid shipping guy, ordered the overkill item. Anyone in the Vancouver, Camas Washington area need any? I'll have some in a couple of days.

[exeng]

brohan, et al,

I used 10 pin stackable headers and carefully removed 1 pin with a very fine toothed hobby saw. So yes, it is a custom effort. The pin length below the female header is just shy of 1 cm or about 3/8 in.

[PeterF]

Too much effort exeng! either box knife through the middle of the last socket with some flush cut sidecutters to do the final trimmings, or a dremel/rotary tool with a cutting disc for me!      8 + 2 or 10 - 1... makes no real difference (other than one piece or two piece)... whichever you have handy works!