Digistump Wiki

• 6 Corner Brackets
• 2 Z Axis Brackets
• 4 C-clips
• 4 Linear Bearings
• 1 Lead Screw Nut
• Z Sled Acrylic Plate
• Z Sled Acrylic Sides
• Z Sled Acrylic Reinforcement Plate
• Z Sled Acrylic Back

Remove plastic covering from both sides of all acrylic pieces

Remove bearings from packages and insert two into each Z Axis Bracket

Line the grooves in the bearings up with the grooves in the Z Axis Bracket and press one C-clip into each groove (1 per bearing, 2 per axis bracket). It may help to use a blunt tool to press these in, they can require some force. They will “snap” into place.

Use M3x10 screws for the following steps - if you line up all the included 3mm screws it is the second to shortest

(TODO: Add identifying screws)

Using M3x10 screws and the matching M3 nuts - attach two corner brackets to the Z sled acrylic plate as shown with the flat side of the corner bracket against the acrylic

When making plastic to acrylic connections like these we recommend putting a drop of Loctite on the threads of each screw before tightening, try to get the Loctite on the threads where the nut will end up.

Loctite is in the blue tube - cut off the very tip after removing the cap.

Place the nut in the recess on the corner bracket and the bolt through the acrylic side - tighten gently.

Next, attach the Z Sled Reinforcement Plate using the same M3x10 screws and M3 Nuts - ensure the plate is attached as shown on the OPPOSITE side from where the brackets are attached (this will be the top side, brackets are on the bottom side).

Now insert the Z Leadscrew Nut from the bottom side of the Z sled and secure with M3x12 (3rd from smallest) screws and M3 nuts as shown.

Attach 4 more corner brackets with M3x10 screws to the Z Sled Acrylic Back, placing the flat sides of the brackets against the acrylic as shown.

Attach the two Z Sled Sides to the corner brackets attached to the Z Sled Plate with M3x12 screw and M3 nuts as shown. The nuts go into the indention for them on the corner bracket.

Next place the two Z Sled Brackets with the open ends facing toward each other and the Z axis shaft holes towards the front of the sled - as shown.

Take a M3x30? screw and push it through the bottom of the three holes at the back the acrylic sled side, through the bottom hole of the Z sled bracket, and secure with a M3 nut. Repeat for the other side.

Now place the Z Sled Back onto the rest of the assembly.

Take two M3x30 screws and push them through the other two holes at the back of the Sled Side, through the remaining two holes in the Z sled bracket, and into the corner brackets on the Z Sled Back - as shown. Secure to the Z Sled Back corner brackets with M3 nuts. Repeat for the other side.

Find the 4 hexigonal M3x12 Nylon Spacers - these are the only hexagonal spacer and are the only threaded spacers.

Take 4 M3x20 screws and the heated bed PCB and insert the screws through the 4 corner holes on the top of the PCB (the side that says “Hot Zone”) - and then thread the nylon spacers on to these screws until they are fairly tight against the PCB.

Position the PCB with screws in it over the holes in the Z Sled Base - insert and use M3 nuts to secure the screws through the Z Sled Base Acrylic.

Find the ??? heated bed covering. This has two sides, a sticky side covered in paper “3M” labeled covering, and a finish side covered with a thin protective plastic film. Do not remove either.

Place the bed covering over the heated bed PCB and use a pair of scissors to trim it to size and remove the corners where the screws go through the PCB.

After it is trimmed to size, carefully remove the “3M” paper backing to reveal the extremely sticky back of the covering. Carefully place the covering over the PCB heated bed, avoid wrinkles. Smooth and frimly press the covering on to the PCB. Then remove the very thing plastic covering the top of it. Careful remove only the thin plastic layer and not the ???? material itself.

The Z Sled and Heated Bed are now complete.

Take the two plastic Y carriage parts, two linear bearings, 4x C clips, 4x M5x70mm screws, 4x M5 nuts (the largest size), two smooth idlers, two toothed idlers, two M5x12 spacers (the tallest ones - check they fit over the screws), and two M5x3? spacers (the second to shortest?).

Insert the bearings into the Y carriages and secure in place with the C-clips as shown.

Take a M5x70 screw and first put on a smooth idler, then a m5x12 spacer, then insert through a Y carriage (in the position/orientation shown), and secure at the bottom with several drops of Loctite and a M5 nut.

Take a M5x70 screw and first put on a toothed idler, then a m5x3 spacer, then insert through a Y carriage (in the position/orientation shown), and secure at the bottom with several drops of Loctite and a M5 nut.

Switch to the next Y carriage

Take a M5x70 screw and first put on a toothed idler, then a m5x12 spacer, then insert through a Y carriage (in the position/orientation shown), and secure at the bottom with several drops of Loctite and a M5 nut.

Take a M5x70 screw and first put on a smooth idler, then a m5x3 spacer, then insert through a Y carriage (in the position/orientation shown), and secure at the bottom with several drops of Loctite and a M5 nut.

The Y carriages are now complete.

Take the head unit assembly, 2x bearings, and 4x C-clips.

Insert the bearings and secure with the C-clips as shown.

Take 2x M4x14 screws, 2x M4 nuts, and 2x M4x8 spacers (todo add how to tell M4 from M5)

Place a M4x8 spacer on each of the M4x14 screws. From the top of the head unit insert into the two small recessed square areas with holes in them - as shown - and secure with a M4 nut.

Take 2x M4x30 screws, 2x M4 nuts, 2x M4x2 spacers, and 2x M4x12 spacers - and the head unit PCB

Put a M4x2 spacer on each screw, insert through the two holes in the head unit PCB, and then put a M4x12 spacer on each screw - and then insert into the head unit plastic part - through the two holes on the top - as shown. Secure with M4 nuts.

1x Small Fan 1x Fan Shroud 3x Nozzles (3 sizes) 1x Heat block (black) 2x Heat Pipe (2 kinds) 1x Thermistor 1x Heat Sink 1x Push Fitting 1x Heater Element 1x Hot End Bracket

Screw Push Fitting into Heatsink

Screw the long threaded end of the Heat pipe into the other end of the heatsink, get as tight as you can by hand

Screw the heat block with the screw on the opposite side that you screw into the heatsink (see photo) on to the other end of the heat pipe until it is completely hand tight.

Screw the 0.4mm nozzle (0.4 is engraved on the side) into the heat block, as tight as you can get it by hand. You can use a small set of pliers to tighten it slightly more - 1/8 turn - if you'd like.

Insert the heater element into the heat block from the side with the screw on it - as shown.

Tighten the screw on the bottom (the surface with the nozzle) to tighten the heater element into place.

Insert the thermistor into the small hole in the heat block

Gently push the covered wires from the thermistor under the screw next to the small hole and tighten that screw lightly and gently to hold them in place.

Take the small fan and fan shroud - attach the fan to the shroud using 4x M3x14 screws

Snap the shroud on to the hot end heatsink ensuring the notched end of the shroud is at the bottom of the heatsink (the end with the heat block, nozzle, and heater element.

Attach the completed hotend to the plastic head unit using the hotend bracket and 4x M3x14 screws and nuts

Orient the fan shroud and hotend so that the fan and screw on the bottom of the heat block face forward as shown, with the wires to the right (when looking at the fan).

Attach the second small fan to the top of the head unit using 4x M3x20 screws and 4x M3 nuts.

Attach PL-08N level detector to other side of head unit as shown

Attach wires from level detector into screw terminal as shown - use small slotted screw driver to tighten after inserting wires.

Plug the two fans into the small white sockets closest to each (hot end socket is next to the “Temp” plug). Screw the two heater wires into the two position screw terminal (wire order does not matter for this).

Plug the temperature probe into the header labeled “Temp” (wire order does not matter for this).

2x Y Carriages (previously assembled)

1x Head Unit (previously assembled)

2x Smooth Metal Axis (the longest size)

4x Retainer Rings (only one size)

Push the Y carriage with the smooth idler on the taller screw (as shown) on to the two Metal Axis in the orientation shown.

Put a retaining ring on each axis after it does through the Y carriage as shown. Tighten retainer using supplied hex tool that fits.

Gently put the Head Unit onto the two axis in the orientation shown - not the short screw with the toothed idler is on the same side as the side of the head unit that has the level detector on it (and laser if you are using that).

Push the head unit all the way to the side the Y Carriage is on and then pull one axis through the Y Carriage about 1/3 of the way - as shown.

Now take the other Y carriage and push it onto the two Metal Axis one at a time - as shown.

When complete put the retaining rings on this side an tighten. The X Axis is now complete.

1x Power Supply Unit 1x Power Supply PCB 1x Back Side Acrylic 2x Axis Brackets

NOTE: Power Supply PCB will have a cover in production

Take power supply unit and ensure it is set to proper voltage (it may come set to 110 or 220 - please check!). If it is set to the wrong voltage use a non-metallic item to flip the switch through the cover. (DO NOT remove the cover).

Position power supply as shown on back panel - pay attention to the notch on the right and ensure it is on the right. Use 4x M3x8 screws to attach the power supply - going from the other side of the back panel into the back of the power supply.

Remove the screws shown from the Power Supply

Place Power Supply PCB over the screw holes and replace screws, tighten down.

Flip screw cover down over screws.

Take the two axis brackets (SK8) and 4x M5x20 screws and 4x M5 nuts (shortest of the M5 screws). Attach to the inside side of the back panel as shown (the side that does not have the power supply on it).

The back panel assembly is now complete.

1x Front Panel Acrylic 1x Display Assembly 2x M2x8 Machine Screws 2x M2 Nuts

Attach display as shown - notice the pin header on the display goes up - two holes above it, three holes below it - and on the correct side that it is on the right of the panel.

The front panel assembly is now complete.

1x Right Side Panel Acrylic 4x M3x10 screws 4x M3 Nuts 4x Corner Brackets

Identify the Right Side Panel by the side panel that has less holes in it and doesn't have the second fan cut out.

Place in the orientation/side shown and attach corner brackets with screws coming into them from the other side so the flat side of each bracket is facing the smooth outside edges of the panel - as shown.

1x Left Side Panel Acrylic 4x M3x10 screws 4x M3 Nuts 4x Corner Brackets

Identify the Left Side Panel by the side panel that has more holes in it and DOES have the second fan cut out.

Place in the orientation/side shown and attach corner brackets with screws coming into them from the other side so the flat side of each bracket is facing the smooth outside edges of the panel - as shown.

• 1x Extruder Motor (the larger motor)
• 1x Extruder Part Kit
• 1x M3x20 Screw

Empty out bag of Extruder Parts. You will need these parts plus 1x M3x20 screw from the other screws that came with the printer.

Place extruder toothed wheel on extruder motor in the approximate position shown, use the smallest hex key to tighten.

Place the extruder motor shaft with the toothed wheel through the side panel so that the motor body is on the side with the corner brackets and the shaft and toothed wheel is on the opposite side. Set aside.

Take the shown part of the extruder and screw the push connector into it as shown.

Use two of the longest screws from the extruder kit (silver colored) to attach this piece to the motor, making sure to follow the orientation of the second photo below.

Next take the other large plastic piece from the extruder kit, as well as the grooved bearing, the two identical small bearings and the small metal tube.

Insert the grooved bearing into the gap in the plastic piece as shown - use the smallest screw from the extruder kit and the lock nut to secure it in place.

Insert one small bearing into each side of the plastic piece in the hole they fit in - and then press the metal tube through them.

Use the M3x20 (black) screw that was not in the kit to attach this part to the motor as shown - put the spring as shown before attaching.

• 1x Mainboard PCB
• 5x M3x14 Screws
• 5x M3 Nuts
• 5x M3x3mm spacers

Install mainboard using screws, spacers, and nuts as shown - notice the orientation and that it is on the same side as the motor body and corner brackets.

• 1x Spool Holder
• 4x M3x12 Screws
• 4x M3 Nuts

Install the spool holder to the side of the panel that the extruder is on (not the side with the mainboard and corner brackets).

• 1x Acrylic Motor Plate
• 3x Stepper Motors
• 2x Toothed gears
• 1x M5x12 spacer
• 1x M5xM8 Flex Coupler

Place the motors under the plate with it oriented as shown, notice the biggest square hole is on the right when the motors are at the top.

Secure each motor using 4x M3x8 screws each

Place the toothed gears on the two outside motors in the positions shown - first the motor next to the largest square hole:

Next the other outside one as shown - place the M5x12 spacer on the motor shaft first and then the toothed gear.

Attach the small holed side of the flex couple to the center motor as shown.