Digistump Wiki

• 6 Corner Brackets
• 2 Z Axis Brackets
• 4 C-clips
• 4 Linear Bearings
• 1 Lead Screw Nut
• Z Sled Acrylic Plate
• Z Sled Acrylic Sides
• Z Sled Acrylic Reinforcement Plate
• Z Sled Acrylic Back

Remove plastic covering from both sides of all acrylic pieces

Remove bearings from packages and insert two into each Z Axis Bracket

Line the grooves in the bearings up with the grooves in the Z Axis Bracket and press one C-clip into each groove (1 per bearing, 2 per axis bracket). It may help to use a blunt tool to press these in, they can require some force. They will “snap” into place.

Use M3x10 screws for the following steps - if you line up all the included 3mm screws it is the second to shortest

(TODO: Add identifying screws)

Using M3x10 screws and the matching M3 nuts - attach two corner brackets to the Z sled acrylic plate as shown with the flat side of the corner bracket against the acrylic

When making plastic to acrylic connections like these we recommend putting a drop of Loctite on the threads of each screw before tightening, try to get the Loctite on the threads where the nut will end up.

Loctite is in the blue tube - cut off the very tip after removing the cap.

Place the nut in the recess on the corner bracket and the bolt through the acrylic side - tighten gently.

Next, attach the Z Sled Reinforcement Plate using the same M3x10 screws and M3 Nuts - ensure the plate is attached as shown on the OPPOSITE side from where the brackets are attached (this will be the top side, brackets are on the bottom side).

Now insert the Z Leadscrew Nut from the bottom side of the Z sled and secure with M3x12 (3rd from smallest) screws and M3 nuts as shown.

Attach 4 more corner brackets with M3x10 screws to the Z Sled Acrylic Back, placing the flat sides of the brackets against the acrylic as shown.

Attach the two Z Sled Sides to the corner brackets attached to the Z Sled Plate with M3x12 screw and M3 nuts as shown. The nuts go into the indention for them on the corner bracket.

Next place the two Z Sled Brackets with the open ends facing toward each other and the Z axis shaft holes towards the front of the sled - as shown.

Take a M3x30? screw and push it through the bottom of the three holes at the back the acrylic sled side, through the bottom hole of the Z sled bracket, and secure with a M3 nut. Repeat for the other side.

Now place the Z Sled Back onto the rest of the assembly.

Take two M3x30 screws and push them through the other two holes at the back of the Sled Side, through the remaining two holes in the Z sled bracket, and into the corner brackets on the Z Sled Back - as shown. Secure to the Z Sled Back corner brackets with M3 nuts. Repeat for the other side.

Find the 4 hexigonal M3x12 Nylon Spacers - these are the only hexagonal spacer and are the only threaded spacers.

Take 4 M3x20 screws and the heated bed PCB and insert the screws through the 4 corner holes on the top of the PCB (the side that says “Hot Zone”) - and then thread the nylon spacers on to these screws until they are fairly tight against the PCB.

Position the PCB with screws in it over the holes in the Z Sled Base - insert and use M3 nuts to secure the screws through the Z Sled Base Acrylic.

Find the ??? heated bed covering. This has two sides, a sticky side covered in paper “3M” labeled covering, and a finish side covered with a thin protective plastic film. Do not remove either.

Place the bed covering over the heated bed PCB and use a pair of scissors to trim it to size and remove the corners where the screws go through the PCB.

After it is trimmed to size, carefully remove the “3M” paper backing to reveal the extremely sticky back of the covering. Carefully place the covering over the PCB heated bed, avoid wrinkles. Smooth and frimly press the covering on to the PCB. Then remove the very thing plastic covering the top of it. Careful remove only the thin plastic layer and not the ???? material itself.

The Z Sled and Heated Bed are now complete.

Take the two plastic Y carriage parts, two linear bearings, 4x C clips, 4x M5x70mm screws, 4x M5 nuts (the largest size), two smooth idlers, two toothed idlers, two M5x12 spacers (the tallest ones - check they fit over the screws), and two M5x3? spacers (the second to shortest?).

Insert the bearings into the Y carriages and secure in place with the C-clips as shown.

Take a M5x70 screw and first put on a smooth idler, then a m5x12 spacer, then insert through a Y carriage (in the position/orientation shown), and secure at the bottom with several drops of Loctite and a M5 nut.

Take a M5x70 screw and first put on a toothed idler, then a m5x3 spacer, then insert through a Y carriage (in the position/orientation shown), and secure at the bottom with several drops of Loctite and a M5 nut.

Switch to the next Y carriage

Take a M5x70 screw and first put on a toothed idler, then a m5x12 spacer, then insert through a Y carriage (in the position/orientation shown), and secure at the bottom with several drops of Loctite and a M5 nut.

Take a M5x70 screw and first put on a smooth idler, then a m5x3 spacer, then insert through a Y carriage (in the position/orientation shown), and secure at the bottom with several drops of Loctite and a M5 nut.

The Y carriages are now complete.

Take the head unit assembly, 2x bearings, and 4x C-clips.

Insert the bearings and secure with the C-clips as shown.

Take 2x M4x14 screws, 2x M4 nuts, and 2x M4x8 spacers (todo add how to tell M4 from M5)

Place a M4x8 spacer on each of the M4x14 screws. From the top of the head unit insert into the two small recessed square areas with holes in them - as shown - and secure with a M4 nut.

Take 2x M4x30 screws, 2x M4 nuts, 2x M4x2 spacers, and 2x M4x12 spacers - and the head unit PCB

Put a M4x2 spacer on each screw, insert through the two holes in the head unit PCB, and then put a M4x12 spacer on each screw - and then insert into the head unit plastic part - through the two holes on the top - as shown. Secure with M4 nuts.

1x Small Fan 1x Fan Shroud 3x Nozzles (3 sizes) 1x Heat block (black) 2x Heat Pipe (2 kinds) 1x Thermistor 1x Heat Sink 1x Push Fitting 1x Heater Element 1x Hot End Bracket

Screw Push Fitting into Heatsink

Screw the long threaded end of the Heat pipe into the other end of the heatsink, get as tight as you can by hand

Screw the heat block with the screw on the opposite side that you screw into the heatsink (see photo) on to the other end of the heat pipe until it is completely hand tight.

Screw the 0.4mm nozzle (0.4 is engraved on the side) into the heat block, as tight as you can get it by hand. You can use a small set of pliers to tighten it slightly more - 1/8 turn - if you'd like.

Insert the heater element into the heat block from the side with the screw on it - as shown.

Tighten the screw on the bottom (the surface with the nozzle) to tighten the heater element into place.

Insert the thermistor into the small hole in the heat block

Gently push the covered wires from the thermistor under the screw next to the small hole and tighten that screw lightly and gently to hold them in place.

Take the small fan and fan shroud - attach the fan to the shroud using 4x M3x14 screws

Snap the shroud on to the hot end heatsink ensuring the notched end of the shroud is at the bottom of the heatsink (the end with the heat block, nozzle, and heater element.

Attach the completed hotend to the plastic head unit using the hotend bracket and 4x M3x14 screws and nuts

Orient the fan shroud and hotend so that the fan and screw on the bottom of the heat block face forward as shown, with the wires to the right (when looking at the fan).

Attach the second small fan to the top of the head unit using 4x M3x20 screws and 4x M3 nuts.

Attach PL-08N level detector to other side of head unit as shown

Attach wires from level detector into screw terminal as shown - use small slotted screw driver to tighten after inserting wires.

Plug the two fans into the small white sockets closest to each (hot end socket is next to the “Temp” plug). Screw the two heater wires into the two position screw terminal (wire order does not matter for this).

Plug the temperature probe into the header labeled “Temp” (wire order does not matter for this).

2x Y Carriages (previously assembled)

1x Head Unit (previously assembled)

2x Smooth Metal Axis (the longest size)

4x Retainer Rings (only one size)

Push the Y carriage with the smooth idler on the taller screw (as shown) on to the two Metal Axis in the orientation shown.

Put a retaining ring on each axis after it does through the Y carriage as shown. Tighten retainer using supplied hex tool that fits.

Gently put the Head Unit onto the two axis in the orientation shown - not the short screw with the toothed idler is on the same side as the side of the head unit that has the level detector on it (and laser if you are using that).

Push the head unit all the way to the side the Y Carriage is on and then pull one axis through the Y Carriage about 1/3 of the way - as shown.

Now take the other Y carriage and push it onto the two Metal Axis one at a time - as shown.

When complete put the retaining rings on this side an tighten. The X Axis is now complete.