Remove plastic covering from both sides of all acrylic pieces
Remove bearings from packages and insert two into each Z Axis Bracket
Line the grooves in the bearings up with the grooves in the Z Axis Bracket and press one C-clip into each groove (1 per bearing, 2 per axis bracket). It may help to use a blunt tool to press these in, they can require some force. They will “snap” into place.
Use M3x10 screws for the following steps - if you line up all the included 3mm screws it is the second to shortest
(TODO: Add identifying screws)
Using M3x10 screws and the matching M3 nuts - attach two corner brackets to the Z sled acrylic plate as shown with the flat side of the corner bracket against the acrylic
When making plastic to acrylic connections like these we recommend putting a drop of Loctite on the threads of each screw before tightening, try to get the Loctite on the threads where the nut will end up.
Loctite is in the blue tube - cut off the very tip after removing the cap.
Place the nut in the recess on the corner bracket and the bolt through the acrylic side - tighten gently.
Next, attach the Z Sled Reinforcement Plate using the same M3x10 screws and M3 Nuts - ensure the plate is attached as shown on the OPPOSITE side from where the brackets are attached (this will be the top side, brackets are on the bottom side).
Now insert the Z Leadscrew Nut from the bottom side of the Z sled and secure with M3x12 (3rd from smallest) screws and M3 nuts as shown.
Attach 4 more corner brackets with M3x10 screws to the Z Sled Acrylic Back, placing the flat sides of the brackets against the acrylic as shown.
Attach the two Z Sled Sides to the corner brackets attached to the Z Sled Plate with M3x12 screw and M3 nuts as shown. The nuts go into the indention for them on the corner bracket.
Next place the two Z Sled Brackets with the open ends facing toward each other and the Z axis shaft holes towards the front of the sled - as shown.
Take a M3x30? screw and push it through the bottom of the three holes at the back the acrylic sled side, through the bottom hole of the Z sled bracket, and secure with a M3 nut. Repeat for the other side.
Now place the Z Sled Back onto the rest of the assembly.
Take two M3x30 screws and push them through the other two holes at the back of the Sled Side, through the remaining two holes in the Z sled bracket, and into the corner brackets on the Z Sled Back - as shown. Secure to the Z Sled Back corner brackets with M3 nuts. Repeat for the other side.
Find the 4 hexigonal M3x12 Nylon Spacers - these are the only hexagonal spacer and are the only threaded spacers.
Take 4 M3x20 screws and the heated bed PCB and insert the screws through the 4 corner holes on the top of the PCB (the side that says “Hot Zone”) - and then thread the nylon spacers on to these screws until they are fairly tight against the PCB.
Position the PCB with screws in it over the holes in the Z Sled Base - insert and use M3 nuts to secure the screws through the Z Sled Base Acrylic.
Find the ??? heated bed covering. This has two sides, a sticky side covered in paper “3M” labeled covering, and a finish side covered with a thin protective plastic film. Do not remove either.
Place the bed covering over the heated bed PCB and use a pair of scissors to trim it to size and remove the corners where the screws go through the PCB.
After it is trimmed to size, carefully remove the “3M” paper backing to reveal the extremely sticky back of the covering. Carefully place the covering over the PCB heated bed, avoid wrinkles. Smooth and frimly press the covering on to the PCB. Then remove the very thing plastic covering the top of it. Careful remove only the thin plastic layer and not the ???? material itself.
The Z Sled and Heated Bed are now complete.
Take the two plastic Y carriage parts, two linear bearings, 4x C clips, 4x M5x70mm screws, 4x M5 nuts (the largest size), two smooth idlers, two toothed idlers, two M5x12 spacers (the tallest ones - check they fit over the screws), and two M5x3? spacers (the second to shortest?).
Insert the bearings into the Y carriages and secure in place with the C-clips as shown.
Take a M5x70 screw and first put on a smooth idler, then a m5x12 spacer, then insert through a Y carriage (in the position/orientation shown), and secure at the bottom with several drops of Loctite and a M5 nut.
Take a M5x70 screw and first put on a toothed idler, then a m5x3 spacer, then insert through a Y carriage (in the position/orientation shown), and secure at the bottom with several drops of Loctite and a M5 nut.
Switch to the next Y carriage
Take a M5x70 screw and first put on a toothed idler, then a m5x12 spacer, then insert through a Y carriage (in the position/orientation shown), and secure at the bottom with several drops of Loctite and a M5 nut.
Take a M5x70 screw and first put on a smooth idler, then a m5x3 spacer, then insert through a Y carriage (in the position/orientation shown), and secure at the bottom with several drops of Loctite and a M5 nut.
The Y carriages are now complete.
Take the head unit assembly, 2x bearings, and 4x C-clips.
Insert the bearings and secure with the C-clips as shown.
Take 2x M4x14 screws, 2x M4 nuts, and 2x M4x8 spacers (todo add how to tell M4 from M5)
Place a M4x8 spacer on each of the M4x14 screws. From the top of the head unit insert into the two small recessed square areas with holes in them - as shown - and secure with a M4 nut.
Take 2x M4x30 screws, 2x M4 nuts, 2x M4x2 spacers, and 2x M4x12 spacers - and the head unit PCB
Put a M4x2 spacer on each screw, insert through the two holes in the head unit PCB, and then put a M4x12 spacer on each screw - and then insert into the head unit plastic part - through the two holes on the top - as shown. Secure with M4 nuts.
1x Small Fan 1x Fan Shroud 3x Nozzles (3 sizes) 1x Heat block (black) 2x Heat Pipe (2 kinds) 1x Thermistor 1x Heat Sink 1x Push Fitting 1x Heater Element 1x Hot End Bracket
Screw Push Fitting into Heatsink
Screw the long threaded end of the Heat pipe into the other end of the heatsink, get as tight as you can by hand
Screw the heat block with the screw on the opposite side that you screw into the heatsink (see photo) on to the other end of the heat pipe until it is completely hand tight.
Screw the 0.4mm nozzle (0.4 is engraved on the side) into the heat block, as tight as you can get it by hand. You can use a small set of pliers to tighten it slightly more - 1/8 turn - if you'd like.
Insert the heater element into the heat block from the side with the screw on it - as shown.
Tighten the screw on the bottom (the surface with the nozzle) to tighten the heater element into place.
Insert the thermistor into the small hole in the heat block
Gently push the covered wires from the thermistor under the screw next to the small hole and tighten that screw lightly and gently to hold them in place.
Take the small fan and fan shroud - attach the fan to the shroud using 4x M3x14 screws
Snap the shroud on to the hot end heatsink ensuring the notched end of the shroud is at the bottom of the heatsink (the end with the heat block, nozzle, and heater element.
Attach the completed hotend to the plastic head unit using the hotend bracket and 4x M3x14 screws and nuts
Orient the fan shroud and hotend so that the fan and screw on the bottom of the heat block face forward as shown, with the wires to the right (when looking at the fan).
Attach the second small fan to the top of the head unit using 4x M3x20 screws and 4x M3 nuts.
Attach PL-08N level detector to other side of head unit as shown
Attach wires from level detector into screw terminal as shown - use small slotted screw driver to tighten after inserting wires.
Plug the two fans into the small white sockets closest to each (hot end socket is next to the “Temp” plug). Screw the two heater wires into the two position screw terminal (wire order does not matter for this).
Plug the temperature probe into the header labeled “Temp” (wire order does not matter for this).
2x Y Carriages (previously assembled)
1x Head Unit (previously assembled)
2x Smooth Metal Axis (the longest size)
4x Retainer Rings (only one size)
Push the Y carriage with the smooth idler on the taller screw (as shown) on to the two Metal Axis in the orientation shown.
Put a retaining ring on each axis after it does through the Y carriage as shown. Tighten retainer using supplied hex tool that fits.
Gently put the Head Unit onto the two axis in the orientation shown - not the short screw with the toothed idler is on the same side as the side of the head unit that has the level detector on it (and laser if you are using that).
Push the head unit all the way to the side the Y Carriage is on and then pull one axis through the Y Carriage about 1/3 of the way - as shown.
Now take the other Y carriage and push it onto the two Metal Axis one at a time - as shown.
When complete put the retaining rings on this side an tighten. The X Axis is now complete.
1x Power Supply Unit 1x Power Supply PCB 1x Back Side Acrylic 2x Axis Brackets
NOTE: Power Supply PCB will have a cover in production
Take power supply unit and ensure it is set to proper voltage (it may come set to 110 or 220 - please check!). If it is set to the wrong voltage use a non-metallic item to flip the switch through the cover. (DO NOT remove the cover).
Position power supply as shown on back panel - pay attention to the notch on the right and ensure it is on the right. Use 4x M3x8 screws to attach the power supply - going from the other side of the back panel into the back of the power supply.
Remove the screws shown from the Power Supply
Place Power Supply PCB over the screw holes and replace screws, tighten down.
Flip screw cover down over screws.
Take the two axis brackets (SK8) and 4x M5x20 screws and 4x M5 nuts (shortest of the M5 screws). Attach to the inside side of the back panel as shown (the side that does not have the power supply on it).
The back panel assembly is now complete.
1x Front Panel Acrylic 1x Display Assembly 2x M2x8 Machine Screws 2x M2 Nuts
Attach display as shown - notice the pin header on the display goes up - two holes above it, three holes below it - and on the correct side that it is on the right of the panel.
The front panel assembly is now complete.
1x Right Side Panel Acrylic 4x M3x10 screws 4x M3 Nuts 4x Corner Brackets
Identify the Right Side Panel by the side panel that has less holes in it and doesn't have the second fan cut out.
Place in the orientation/side shown and attach corner brackets with screws coming into them from the other side so the flat side of each bracket is facing the smooth outside edges of the panel - as shown.
1x Left Side Panel Acrylic 4x M3x10 screws 4x M3 Nuts 4x Corner Brackets
Identify the Left Side Panel by the side panel that has more holes in it and DOES have the second fan cut out.
Place in the orientation/side shown and attach corner brackets with screws coming into them from the other side so the flat side of each bracket is facing the smooth outside edges of the panel - as shown.
Empty out bag of Extruder Parts. You will need these parts plus 1x M3x20 screw from the other screws that came with the printer.
Place extruder toothed wheel on extruder motor in the approximate position shown, use the smallest hex key to tighten.
Place the extruder motor shaft with the toothed wheel through the side panel so that the motor body is on the side with the corner brackets and the shaft and toothed wheel is on the opposite side. Set aside.
Take the shown part of the extruder and screw the push connector into it as shown.
Use two of the longest screws from the extruder kit (silver colored) to attach this piece to the motor, making sure to follow the orientation of the second photo below.
Next take the other large plastic piece from the extruder kit, as well as the grooved bearing, the two identical small bearings and the small metal tube.
Insert the grooved bearing into the gap in the plastic piece as shown - use the smallest screw from the extruder kit and the lock nut to secure it in place.
Insert one small bearing into each side of the plastic piece in the hole they fit in - and then press the metal tube through them.
Use the M3x20 (black) screw that was not in the kit to attach this part to the motor as shown - put the spring as shown before attaching.
Install mainboard using screws, spacers, and nuts as shown - notice the orientation and that it is on the same side as the motor body and corner brackets.
Install the spool holder to the side of the panel that the extruder is on (not the side with the mainboard and corner brackets).
Place the motors under the plate with it oriented as shown, notice the biggest square hole is on the right when the motors are at the top.
Secure each motor using 4x M3x8 screws each
Place the toothed gears on the two outside motors in the positions shown - first the motor next to the largest square hole:
Next the other outside one as shown - place the M5x12 spacer on the motor shaft first and then the toothed gear.
Attach the small holed side of the flex couple to the center motor as shown.
The the left side (with the mainboard PCB and spool holder on it) and the back (with the power supply on it).
Place them together as shown and attach to each other using the corner brackets that are on the left side panel, using M3x10 screws and M3 nuts.
Be careful with them in this stage - pushing on either can break the panels.
Connect the black and white 4 pin power cable between the mainboard PCB, through the cutout and to the Power Supply PCB as shown
Next, separately take the other side (right side) and the front panel and connect them as shown using the corner brackets already attached to the right side and the M3x10 screws and M3 nuts. Set this aside.
Now go back to the left side/back panel assembly and find the triangular pieces shown and insert them into the back panel - the shorter of the two notched sides goes into the back panel.
Take the motor plate and angle it down toward the back plate while gently putting it on to the triangular pieces you just put in place. This may take a few tries - it should go onto those and the taps on the back and side of the motor plate should fit in the slots on the back and side plates.
Secure this to the two upper corner brackets on the left side/back panel. Using M3x10 screws and M3 nuts.
Now put the other half of the cube together with this half by sliding it into place carefully, ensuring the motor plate tabs go into the slots on the right side and front plates - this may take a few tries, take it slowly and carefully, it will fit together snug but without force.
Attach the right side to the back using the two corner brackets on the back of the right side. Using M3x10 screws and M3 nuts.
Attach the left side to the front using the two corner brackets on the front of the left side. Using M3x10 screws and M3 nuts.
Then attach the motor plate to the remaining two corner brackets. Everything should now fit together and be secured.
Use the 4 pin header cable to plug the Display into the Mainboard (labeled display) - aligning the colors of the cable as shown.
Get the Z axis / heatbed assembly that you assembled previously, the shorter of the two networking cables, and the two shorter metal axis rods.
Plug the shorter of the two networking cables into the bottom socket on the mainboard as shown. Then plug into the bottom of the heated bed (place the heated bed inside the printer to make this easy).
Now feed to two metal axis down through the holes in the motor plate on either side of the center motor. Put the heatbed at the back of the printer and feed the two axis down through that and into the brackets at the bottom of the back plate. Tighten these brackets with the largest hex key.
Now, with the heat bed pushed to the top, from below the heat bed screw the leadscrew into the leadscrew nut on the heat bed, continue to screw it in until it can go into the coupler on the center motor. When it is all the way into that coupler back it up about one turn so it is not pressing tightly into that coupler.
Take the previously assembled X axis, the remaining two metal axis rods, and the remaining 4 retaining rings.
Feed one of the axis rods through the hole on the front of the printer - through the bearing on the X axis assembly (oriented so the hot end is facing the back of the printer) and through the matching hole on the back of the printer.
Place the retaining rings on the axis on the front and back of the printer and tighten the set screws.
Repeat for the other axis.
4x M5x45mm screws (all of them) 4x M5 nuts 4x Toothed Idlers 3x M5x12mm spacers (5 shown in photo, only 3 needed) 3x M5x3mm spacers 2x narrow Acrylic corner idlers supports 2x wide Acrylic corner idlers supports
In the two front corners - slide the two wide corner idler support plates in through the slot just above the Y axis shaft. The holes in the motor plate above them should line up with the holes in the support plates, if not flip them over and reinsert them.
Then slide the narrow support plates in from the front of the two side panels so they overlap and the holes line up with the other support plates you just put in. They narrow plates should be underneath the wide plates. If the holes don't line up flip the support plates and reinsert.
On the corner side that DOES NOT have the display or mainboard, take a M5x45 screw and insert it through the hole closest to the corner in the bottom of the support plates (reaching inside the printer to do this), as it comes up through the two support plates put a M5x3mm spacer on it and a toothed idler, then push it up through the motor plate and put a M5 nut on it, do not tighten yet more than a turn or two to keep it on.
On the same corner insert a M5x45 screw into the other hole through the bottom of the support plates, as it comes up through the two support plates put a M5x12mm spacer on it and a toothed idler and then a M5x3mm spacer, then push it up through the motor plate and put a M5 nut on it, tighten gently and leave less then finger tight. You can tighten the other nut down as well now, also just short of finger tight.
Now on the corner side that DOES have the display and mainboard, take a M5x45 screw and insert it through the hole closest to the corner in the bottom of the support plates (reaching inside the printer to do this), as it comes up through the two support plates put a M5x12mm spacer on it and a toothed idler, then push it up through the motor plate and put a M5 nut on it, do not tighten yet more than a turn or two to keep it on.
On the same corner insert a M5x45 screw into the other hole through the bottom of the support plates, as it comes up through the two support plates put a M5x3mm spacer on it and a toothed idler and then a M5x12mm spacer, then push it up through the motor plate and put a M5 nut on it, tighten gently and leave less then finger tight. You can tighten the other nut down as well now, also just short of finger tight.
Get the two lengths of belt and the package of zip ties.
With the printer in front of you, the front opening facing towards you - first install the lower right belt to the head unit as shown. Loop the belt around the recessed peg (not the one that goes through the head unit PCB) with the teeth of the belt facing the peg. Ensure the excess is closest to you as shown. You should have about 1 inch of excess at most to ensure you have enough belt length.
Place to zipties around the belt and the excess to tie them together so the teeth lock with each other and there is no opening between them and the peg.
Cut off any excess ziptie and belt - leave about 1/4“ excess belt after the ziptie.
Take the second belt and repeat the same process for the recessed peg on the left side
Now take the right hand belt (the first one) and run it back around the smooth idler on the right side, back to the motor, around it, and up to the idlers in the front corner. Around the front most idler in the right corner, and then across to the back most idler in the left front corner. Then around the front most idler in the left Y carriage and to the upper left peg that the circuit board sits on top of. Thread around that peg and pull quite tight, secure with two zip ties and cut off excess.
Repeat for the other side.
[Video of both of these belt runs to be added]
Attach the longest stepper motor wire to the right hand motor on the motor plate (printer front facing you).
The 6 pin end attaches to the motor, the 4 pin end to the main board.
Run the wire across the motor plate and down the large hole near the left motor. Zip tie in place by the right motor as shown.
Take the next longest stepper motor wire and attach to the center motor on the motor plate. Run across and down the hole near the left motor as well. Zip tie in place with the previously run wire as shown.
Take the remaining stepper motor wire and attach to the left hand motor and run down the large hole.
Plug the three motor wires into the appropriately labeled positions. The center motor to the Z. The left to the X and the right to the Y.
Zip tie the motor wires up above the main board so they are out of the way of the machines mechanics.
Next take the remaining network cable and run it down the large hole by the left hand motor. Plug into the remaining network plug on the mainboard. Plug the other end into the head unit.
[Need picture of head unit plug once orientation corrected]
Now take the DC-DC power cable and run it down the large hole by the left hand motor. Plug into the DC plug next to the network plug on the mainboard. Plug the other end into the head unit.
Zip tie these two wires together
Now take the white tubing and push it into the push fitting on the extruder head. Then push it into the push fitting on the hot end (head unit).
Zip tie this to the two wires you previously zip tied together.
Now plug the power cord into the power supply unit and into a wall supply. Plug the micro USB cable into the back of the printer and into a computer's USB port.
Your printer is now ready for set up.