Thanks, folks.
I've only ever used USB, and it only fails occasionally, but I'd still like to handle the case.
I guess I'm more of an idiot than I thought, because after looking at the board itself for quite some time, and going back to gogol's pin diagram, I find mention of SJn jumpers on the diagram, but the only thing I see on my board that appears to be a jumper is the one labeled "wifi enable" Where are these other jumpers??
Also, assuming I get past that hurdle (with your help :-) ), a little code snippet for reseting wifi with Pin106 (PC11) would be helpful -- is it something like digitalWrite(Pin106,HIGH);delay(10);digitalWrite(Pin106,LOW);? And having accomplished such a reset, do I need to "start again" on the software side with wifi.begin(9600)?
Please feel free to point me in the direction of documentation, if there's useful stuff I've overlooked!